- 2023 Lunatic Promotions, LLC Full Size Light Weld General Rules1. Any American made sedan or station wagon may be ran. No 73 or older Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 03+ Fords, 4x4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks, etc. 2. Driver must be 18 years of age and have a valid driver’s license. Ages 14-17 must have a notarized permission slip and some form of driver’s license.3. Driver must wear seat belt, helmet, and some form of eye protection. 4. No intentional driver’s door hits. It does happen and you will be dq’ed if we feel it was intentional. Do not use your door as a shield either as you will be disqualified for that also.5. You will be given 30 seconds for an aggressive hit and 60 seconds for a restart or if you are hung up. 6. The only time we will pull two cars apart is when it is down to the final two. If a car is rolled over we will roll it back over and if it is deemed safe it will be allowed to run again. 7. No sandbagging or holding. No pinning to win.8. If you have 2 fires of any kind that need extinguishers to put it out, you will be disqualified.9. All drivers and pit crew members must attend the drivers meeting10. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting.11. No Alcohol in the pits. If any driver or crewmember is caught with alcohol their car will be disqualified and removed from the grounds. 12. Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. There is a $150 pro-test fee and you must be a driver in order to protest.13. You must arrive 2 hours prior to any shows starting time, you will be charged a $50 late fee and if you do not arrive a 1 hour prior you will forfeit your entry fee. Please call if you will be late. You will only have 2 chances to go thru tech. If you do not make the necessary changes you will forfeit your entry. 14. Any questions call first. If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it.15. Judges decisions are final.Car Preparation1. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules. 2. All glass, plastic, chrome, etc. must be removed before arriving at the derby. Do not paint on the frame or inside of the car. . Remove all grease from frame. Bolts to hold any chain can not go through the frame. No foam in frame. 3. All decking in station wagons must be removed. 4. Use motor and tranny of choice but must be in stock location.5. Use rear end of choice.8 lug is ok. Rear end may be back braced but can not act as a kicker. Welding the rear end is allowed. 6. Radiator must be in stock location. No radiator barrels. Radiator guards cannot be welded to the radiator support. You may bolt them on in 4 spots with no bigger than 3/8” bolts. Radiator Support can not be welded. 7. Brakes must be workable and deemed safe. 8. Trailer hitches and any extra bracing must be removed. 9. Tie-rods can be reinforced. A-arms must remain stock. Coil Springs must be a factory car coil spring for a car that is permitted in this class. Hubs must remain stock. Spindles must be stock for a car that is legal for this class. No aftermarket spindles. 10. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be properly secured and covered. NO GAS CANS. Plastic gas tanks must be covered with a metal shield. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car. Gas tank bolts can not be bolted or welded to or thru to the frame, sheet metal only. Sedans only may have a gas tank protector. It can be no wider than 28 inches, 14 inches on each side from the middle of the back seat area. It can not be attached to the back seat panel. Must run straight back off the seat bar. Cannot act as a kicker and can not be thicker than 2” thick tubing. 11. Tires no bigger than 15 inch. No split rims or studded tires. Valve stem protectors are ok. 12. Transmission coolers are allowed but must be safe.13. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard and must be properly secured and covered. 14. Number must be on both doors and on top of your roof in visible colors.Car Building1. No welding maybe done to your frames, bolting, or adding to the frame other than what is specified in the rules may be done. Exterior only may be welded with 3/8” cold filler rod or ¼” thick metal no wider than 3” NO inner seam welding or bolting anywhere!! Trunks/tailgates may be welded with the same material but must have at least a 12-inch square cut in them. . No frame seam welding is allowed. No tilting. You may cold bend on the rail under the doors but your crossmember plate or down bars can not support the bends. 2. If you do not weld your doors, trunk, or tailgate you can chain them with 3/8 chain or less and will be allowed 2 chains per seam or you may wire it with #9 wire up to 3 strands in two spots per seam. 3. You are allowed to run a lower cradle but it must attach to the frame with a factory style engine mount with a rubber bushing. No full cradles, distributor protectors, or mid-plates are allowed. 4. Transmission braces/protectors or aftermarket tail shaft cones are not allowed. You may only use one loop of 3/8” chain or 2 5/8” bolts going through the factory holes to hold your transmission in. You may use a factory car crossmember or you can use a 2x2x1/4” square tubing that has no contours and must be mounted in the stock location. You are allowed a 2x2x1/4” x 6” long piece of angle iron to mount your crossmember to. 5. The cage may be made of no bigger than 6” C-Channel or 4x4” square tubing. You are allowed one dash bar and 2 side bars and all side bars must be at least 10” behind the crush box or firewall. All horizontal bars must be at least 4” off the floor(where your feet are). A halo bar may be ran but it must be ran directly vertical of the back seat bar, cannot be angled. 2 down bars will be allowed but can not act as a kicker in any way or it will be cut. Sidebars cannot be longer than 60 inches and they cannot go past the backseat body mount on a ford or Chevy and no farther back than the front leaf spring shackle on a mopar. Cage maybe welded to the frame. Any cage parts that strengthen the frame or car will be cut. 6. Bumpers are interchangeable and must be stock appearing. Any automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used, but not more than one set of bumper brackets can be used. You can weld the bumper brackets or towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. Instead of bumper brackets you will be allowed to use a 4” wide x 3/8” thick strap extending from your bumper down one side of the frame (cannot be wrapped onto any other side). It must also lay flat on the side of the frame and cannot be made into an angle. You will be allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an” L” shape this to give you enough material to weld your bumper on. Your factory brackets or your strap cannot extend any further back than the first 14” of your frame. You may use a factory bumper and pull it apart and add whatever you want inside the bumper. If you choose to manufacture a homemade bumper it must conform to the following size limit. It can be no larger than 8”x8” The point must taper over an area of at least 32” Overall the bumper cannot exceed 12” wide at the tip of the point. The point may only extend 4” from the flat part of the bumper. The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails. No sharp edges that would be deemed unsafe. Front bumper must be at least 14” off the ground and cannot exceed 22” in height both measured from the ground to the bottom of the bumper. 7. Hood must be off or open for inspection. Hoods can not be welded shut. Only bolted, wired or chained. Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out for fires. You are allowed 16 total bolts in your hood for your cutouts. You are allowed 8 hood bolts and must have at least 4. You can use up to 1” all thread for your hood bolts. Chrysler products may run all thread behind radiator support down to top of frame and be welded to top of frame with no added material. Hood bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Hood plates can not exceed 5x5x1/2. Angle iron maybe be used as a hood plate but can not be thicker than 3/16” and not longer than 5 inches long. Only 2 of your hood bolts may go thru the frame. 8. Trunk/tailgate must be in stock location. You may fold over 60% of the trunk lid. No sedagoning of wagons or wedging of sedan trunks. You may run two 1” all thread from trunk lid to frame can be welded to the side of the frame but the other two must go through the body mount hole. 9. Body mounts bolts(consist of 2 nuts, 1 bolt, and two plates) can be replaced with up to 1” bolts and the body mounts can be replaced with steel washers no bigger than 3”. No body bolt can be more than 12” long except 2 of your hood bolts. (Full Size only)Body mount bolts must be up inside the frame as factory and body maybe sucked down solid. Used cars that have the washers on the bottom side of the frame must drop the body washer down so we can see inside the frame. May weld the spacers to the body but not the frame. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 5x5x1/4” thick washer on top but must be removed for inspection if we cannot see inside the frame. Radiator support mounts can be 1” and removed and sucked down solid. You may also weld your 2 front radiator support all thread pieces to the top or side of the frame. You may also weld the front body mount spacer to the frame. No other all-thread may be welded to the frame. Body mounts can not be used as a kicker or a wedge. You may cut the excess frame off the front rails but you may not move the front body mount. We must be able to see where your front body mount was on your front radiator support mounts. All body mounts must remain in stock location. You are you allowed to add two extra body bolts in the trunk that extend up to the trunk lid. 10. Rust holes may be patched with sheet metal only, no thicker than 14 gauge sheet metal and do not cut the rust out. Do not weld at least 2” of the plate so that we can tell how thick it is. Weld only 2 inches past the rust hole. You may also use self tapping screws to screw a piece in over the rust but this is the only place self tapping screws may be used on the car.11. Tie rod ends and rear control arms may be strengthened but must be workable. 12. Suspension must be stock height. Leaf springs must be stock. Leaf spring thickness can not be greater than 5/16” You are allowed 9 leaf springs total. Leaf springs must stagger down from longest to smallest. You must have a 2” stagger in the back and 1” stagger in the front. If you have a leaf spring on top of the main you will cut it completely out. No flat stacks or welding of stacks. NO Shackle can be bigger than 3” x 3/16” thickness. 6 clamps are allowed per side. Homemade clamps may not exceed 2x4x1/4”. You can put spacers in sagging coil springs. You may bolt or wire your coils in to prevent them from falling out. You may loop wire or chain from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side. No bigger than #9 wire (4strands max.) or 3/8” chain may be used. You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail in two spots behind the rear end. 13. Body shaping will be allowed on the exterior sheetmetal only. 14. 98-02 Fords can change the watts links in the following way. A. They must bolt to package tray with 4 – ½” diam. Bolts No welding of the upper brackets to package tray. *The upper brackets can be no thicker than 3/8” and must be at least 1” away from frame rail. *The upper trailing arms must angle off the factory mounting point on the rear end and mount to package tray in the factory mounting location of the car you are running 98 – 02 fords mount the same way as a 97 and older ford. *Lower frame brackets may be ¼” X 3” X 3” box tubing 3” long welded to side of frame (not to top or bottom of frame in any way) where the factory brackets are located. *All unused brackets must be removed from frame. *No gussets may be used on these lower brackets. *Trailing arms both upper and lower may be 2” X 2” square tubing they must bolt into brackets 15. You will be allowed 8 spots total inside the car of #9 wire or 3/8 cable or chain. 16. Hardtop cars can weld a strap at the doorpost. 17. Sliders are allowed 18. May alter steering column. Idler arm cannot be welded or bolted anywhere. 19. You may cut out wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted with 12 3/8” bolts only. No welding of the cutouts. 20. Must have at least 1 windshield bar in the front windshield for safety purposes. Windshield bar can only attach to firewall sheet metal not to any other bars. Do not connect your bar to your halo bar or roof sign. There must be at least a 10” gap between the windshield bar and your roof sign. You cannot run a back window bar at all. 21. Rusty frames maybe repaired with 1/8” metal, 2” past the rust. Leave 1” unwelded so we may see how thick the steel is.22. No pinning of the frame. Bolts can not go thru the frame for chaining or wiring purposes. 23. If we have any suspicion that your car might be illegal we will drill one or more holes in your frame. 24. All Fuel Lines Must be ran inside the car with high pressured lines and deemed safe! 25. There is no frame shaping allowed at all. Do not sharpen the corners of the frame or square them in any way or form. The only frame shaping allowed is 22” total of the rear hump frame. 26. No protectors can be attacted to motor or tranny or anywhere else. 27. Used cars can have 3 - 4x6" 1/4" thick plates per frame rail on before the heats. Fresh cars may have 2 - 4x6" plates per frame rail on before the heats. Plates must be on the outside of the frame and can only be on 1 side of the frame. It can not be rolled over. You will be allow 4 total plates after the heat per frame rail.